Like humans, cats can have problems with dental health, often related to poor diet and lack of care. When we keep cats as pets, it's our responsibility to provide the proper foods and veterinary attention. Cats in the wild usually don't have these problems if their habitats remain natural. But even that may not be the case and wildlife experts sometimes have to intervene with remedial treatments.
To prevent problems with our pets, the best actions we can take include a diet of sufficient quality to prevent the buildup of tartar and the subsequent development of certain oral diseases or conditions, notably gingivitis, an inflammation of the gum tissue.
Gingivitis, and later actual tooth decay, account for tooth loss, pain, difficulty eating, and bad breath. This requires veterinary care before it affects the cat's immune system, as it can lead to more serious health problems, such as heart disease or other organ involvements, as well as premature aging.
Your cat should be seen for annual tooth cleaning and to check for other health issues. Keep in mind, a dental procedure, such as "scaling" (or scraping) to remove the tartar buildup, will require your cat to be anesthetized. You may wish to have your vet show you how to care for your cat's teeth at home, too, to prevent things from becoming advanced.
Most vets will recommend tooth care either daily, or at least twice a week. Use a soft toothbrush with a small head, or perhaps a bit of gauze wrapped around a finger to gently rub the teeth. It's important not to upset the cat if you want cooperation, so don't try to do too much when you first start. If you only brush a few teeth at a time, that's better than nothing.
Start slowly and let the cat sniff the brush. Be sure to use toothpaste made for pets. Never use human toothpaste, especially if it contains fluoride! It can kill your cat.
End each session with petting or cuddling to help your cat relax.
Thursday, April 19, 2012
Friday, April 6, 2012
Fleas on Cats - A Case Study
Here's an interesting question I received about fleas on cats:
Dear Ms. Kitty,
My poor Xander is suffering with an itch from fleas! He has these horrible bumps all over him and he just can't relax. His fur is always "crawling" and he can't sit still for looking around as though he's thinking about scratching! We just gave him a squeeze-on flea treatment (which didn't seem to work!). He has an appetite but isn't as playful as he could be. All he does all day is sleep (which I know cats do a lot of!) but I feel like he's doing it just so he won't have to deal with the itch! I hope I'm wrong but I know his "happy-healthy" behavior and this isn't it!
I thought I might use a solution of water and peroxide to wash him with.
I'm not sure he'd be okay with a bath...if that's an option!! I'd have quite a fight on my hands! But I will do whatever is necessary!
I love the little guy.
Thanks for your help,
Skip Purvis
--------------------
Dear Skip,
I think a bath is a good idea... fleas can be drowned, but it's not easy. They will migrate toward his head if his body is immersed, so you'd want to have something on his neck to kill or deter them as they arrive. Maybe a temporary flea collar. Or start the flea shampoo at the neck first, them bathe the rest of him and the fleas will jump off as they crawl to the top to get out of the water. Just be careful not to get any soap or water in his eyes or ears.
If you have any fleas in the house, sprinkle some DE (diatomaceous earth) around the perimeter of the room and under his bedding, and especially under the couch cushions, etc.
You can sprinkle it on him, too. It's like talcum powder, so you can sprinkle it on then rub it in. If he licks it, it's safe, and might even help "clean out the pipes" if he has swallowed any of the little buggers.
Just be sure the DE is the safe kind..."food grade," not for gardening or yards. I'm glad to know that your Xander is an inside kitty, so picking them up by being outside won't be an issue. But it's no guarantee. Fleas are perfectly capable of hopping into your house on their own!
Not sure the peroxide would do anything. Probably get better results with a good flea shampoo, as that clogs up the respiratory spiracles of the fleas. Ask your vet which one is best.
Here's a link to a book about flea control from a friend who knows more about it than I do:
Flea Control Secrets
Here's another link with free info:
When I have to bathe a cat, I use a bucket. It seems to help with keeping them under control. Not so easy to jump out and those hind legs are contained. Still have to watch for the front claws, though!
You can also try brushing him often with a stiff bristle brush to help with the itching and removing particles and loose fur.
If he's having a skin reaction, he may be allergic to the fleas.
Here are some remedies for the "hot spots" on his skin:
First, be sure his itchy spots are clean. You may have to shave or clip his hair down to the skin at those locations. Wash with a gentle, unscented, pure soap, and rinse well.
Tea: Brew a cup of strong tea and dissolve an aspirin in it. Soak a small cloth or cotton ball and place that on the itchy, sore spots for several minutes, 4 times a day.
Vinegar: Soak a cloth or cotton ball and place on the itchy spots as above, 4 times a day. Use apple cider vinegar. It's also safe to drink, so don't worry if your cat licks it off. It might even help "detox" him, too.
Good luck!
Follow-up:
Dear Ms. Kitty,
Y'know, I really wasn't expecting much from the whole apple cider vinegar thing but I'm here to tell ya...Awesome! On his first day of application (spraying it on his brush and brushing him), he already seems more comfortable!!
I'm just so happy! Hard to believe that we'd see such "immediate" results. And maybe it's just wishful thinking, but he really seems more comfortable. He's not twitching constantly...AND his coat is soft and smooth!! However, he is getting wise to my "put it on his brush" trick and it's getting harder to corner him for the brushing...the odor is quite intense, but he's been tolerating it!
Finally this evening he's become more like his ol' self! More playful, eating more and generally BETTER!
Thanks again for the tip! How exciting! Just had to let you know right away. I know you understand having a "sick" baby...it's like your own child sick! When we finally find how to love them, it's real! I love this little guy so much! When he hurts, I hurt and when he feels better...
Anyway, YAHOO!!! He's been laying on my chest loving on me since he started feeling more comfortable today....it feels so nice.
Skip
Dear Ms. Kitty,
My poor Xander is suffering with an itch from fleas! He has these horrible bumps all over him and he just can't relax. His fur is always "crawling" and he can't sit still for looking around as though he's thinking about scratching! We just gave him a squeeze-on flea treatment (which didn't seem to work!). He has an appetite but isn't as playful as he could be. All he does all day is sleep (which I know cats do a lot of!) but I feel like he's doing it just so he won't have to deal with the itch! I hope I'm wrong but I know his "happy-healthy" behavior and this isn't it!
I thought I might use a solution of water and peroxide to wash him with.
I'm not sure he'd be okay with a bath...if that's an option!! I'd have quite a fight on my hands! But I will do whatever is necessary!
I love the little guy.
Thanks for your help,
Skip Purvis
--------------------
Dear Skip,
I think a bath is a good idea... fleas can be drowned, but it's not easy. They will migrate toward his head if his body is immersed, so you'd want to have something on his neck to kill or deter them as they arrive. Maybe a temporary flea collar. Or start the flea shampoo at the neck first, them bathe the rest of him and the fleas will jump off as they crawl to the top to get out of the water. Just be careful not to get any soap or water in his eyes or ears.
If you have any fleas in the house, sprinkle some DE (diatomaceous earth) around the perimeter of the room and under his bedding, and especially under the couch cushions, etc.
You can sprinkle it on him, too. It's like talcum powder, so you can sprinkle it on then rub it in. If he licks it, it's safe, and might even help "clean out the pipes" if he has swallowed any of the little buggers.
Just be sure the DE is the safe kind..."food grade," not for gardening or yards. I'm glad to know that your Xander is an inside kitty, so picking them up by being outside won't be an issue. But it's no guarantee. Fleas are perfectly capable of hopping into your house on their own!
Not sure the peroxide would do anything. Probably get better results with a good flea shampoo, as that clogs up the respiratory spiracles of the fleas. Ask your vet which one is best.
Here's a link to a book about flea control from a friend who knows more about it than I do:
Flea Control Secrets
Here's another link with free info:
When I have to bathe a cat, I use a bucket. It seems to help with keeping them under control. Not so easy to jump out and those hind legs are contained. Still have to watch for the front claws, though!
You can also try brushing him often with a stiff bristle brush to help with the itching and removing particles and loose fur.
If he's having a skin reaction, he may be allergic to the fleas.
Here are some remedies for the "hot spots" on his skin:
First, be sure his itchy spots are clean. You may have to shave or clip his hair down to the skin at those locations. Wash with a gentle, unscented, pure soap, and rinse well.
Tea: Brew a cup of strong tea and dissolve an aspirin in it. Soak a small cloth or cotton ball and place that on the itchy, sore spots for several minutes, 4 times a day.
Vinegar: Soak a cloth or cotton ball and place on the itchy spots as above, 4 times a day. Use apple cider vinegar. It's also safe to drink, so don't worry if your cat licks it off. It might even help "detox" him, too.
Good luck!
Follow-up:
Dear Ms. Kitty,
Y'know, I really wasn't expecting much from the whole apple cider vinegar thing but I'm here to tell ya...Awesome! On his first day of application (spraying it on his brush and brushing him), he already seems more comfortable!!
I'm just so happy! Hard to believe that we'd see such "immediate" results. And maybe it's just wishful thinking, but he really seems more comfortable. He's not twitching constantly...AND his coat is soft and smooth!! However, he is getting wise to my "put it on his brush" trick and it's getting harder to corner him for the brushing...the odor is quite intense, but he's been tolerating it!
Finally this evening he's become more like his ol' self! More playful, eating more and generally BETTER!
Thanks again for the tip! How exciting! Just had to let you know right away. I know you understand having a "sick" baby...it's like your own child sick! When we finally find how to love them, it's real! I love this little guy so much! When he hurts, I hurt and when he feels better...
Anyway, YAHOO!!! He's been laying on my chest loving on me since he started feeling more comfortable today....it feels so nice.
Skip
Friday, March 2, 2012
Birth Control For Cats Using FeralStat
Image via WikipediaWhat happened to FeralStat? It was being used successfully by many people who care about humanely controlling feral and stray cat populations. Of special note is that one person could handle a fairly large colony of cats without help or great expense.By contrast, it's virtualy impossible to trap, transport, and pay for very many cats without the help and cooperation of other volunteers and at least one veterinarian.
We need to contact veterinarians and pharmaceutical companies to re-release the drugs that were available for more than 30 years.
(Some of the information for this article is from www.topix.com/forum/drug/megace/TAEVERNHSL2G5SLB2)
Here is some information to help in this quest:
Name of drug: Megestrol Acetate (Feral Stat)
Email: info @ WestlabPharmacy.com (They are collecting reports from people in the field who have experience using Feral Stat and want to hear how it has helped them in controlling stray and feral populations. Only send useful information; do not write to complain or ask about something.)
If enough people raise the issue, perhaps we can help each other help more cats.
Friday, February 10, 2012
What if All the Cats in the World Suddenly Died?
As much as some people might think it would be a good idea to completely eradicate any animal they view as a pest, it's a completely stupid idea. What if someone didn't like bees and found a way to eliminate them? While we may never find out what a world without cats might look like, we may actually get to find out what happens when there are no bees.
According to an article by Dr. Mercola:
However, ecological changes would be just as drastic with the loss of all cats.
"Cats play a critical role in keeping the rodent population down. If there were no cats, we'd be overrun with rats."
According to an article by Dr. Mercola:
"Honeybees are perhaps one of the least recognized workers in the agricultural industry. They contribute $15 billion in annual agriculture revenue to the U.S. economy alone, as a full one-third of the U.S. food supply depends on them pollinating crops.
"Apple orchards, for instance, require one colony of bees per acre in order to be adequately pollinated. So, unless the mysterious disappearance of bees is reversed, major food shortages could result."
Read more: http://bit.ly/qBhgKyHowever, ecological changes would be just as drastic with the loss of all cats.
"Cats play a critical role in keeping the rodent population down. If there were no cats, we'd be overrun with rats."
Tuesday, January 17, 2012
Five Ways to Prevent Cat Health Problems
The following 5 steps will help ensure that your best friend can live as long and healthy as possible under your care.
It's important to do what we can to protect our cats because they are totally at our mercy, living in our homes, where they are exposed to many of the same toxins and hazards that we are. But they are smaller, and not able to make decisions about their environment, so it's up to us to provide optimal conditions that lead to continued health and happiness.
Another significant reason to make the effort to keep them healthy is the reduction in medical problems that can result in costly trips to the veterinarian. To be sure you keep your kitty healthy, focus on these areas:
1. Diet. Always read the ingredient labels on any commercial food you buy. Remember that cats are obligate carnivores and require more protein than most pets, such as dogs. Canned, or wet, food is a good choice over dry kibble because it has a higher water content and can help minimize the risk of kidney disease. Organic pet foods are becoming more popular and are worth your attention, too, because of the higher quality ingredients.
2. Water. Be sure your cat always has fresh, clear water at all times. One way to be sure kitty gets enough to drink is to keep it in a separate location from the food. Cats in nature don't eat and drink at the same meal, and tamed cats don't do it either, unless they have no choice. Also, if the tap water in your area is full of chemicals and you drink filtered water, then by all means, give your cat the same consideration.
3. Nutritional supplements. Do you take your vitamins every day? Cats may need some, too, and there are many on the market now, as more and more people realize the need to provide proper nutrition to their pets. Rather than trying to figure out which vitamins and minerals are needed and then buying them separately, try to find a good all around supplement. A very good formula, along with a free ebook about feline nutrition, can be obtained here: http://bit.ly/9pN3Uj
4. Love and attention. Many people think cats are aloof and have no feelings, but that's completely untrue. Cats are very emotional beings and only appear aloof when people ignore them and they are forced to survive under whatever conditions are present. Scientific studies have proven that love and attention play a major role in the health and well being of people, dogs and other creatures. Why not cats?
5. Minimize toxins at home. Just as you might keep small objects and toxic cleaning supplies out of reach of toddlers, do the same for your cat. They are just as curious as children are and can get into dangerous substances and items that can harm them. Also, if you smoke, your cat is smoking, too. Their lungs are much much smaller and will be affected more severely than yours are. If you must smoke, do so in an area away from your cat, kids, other pets, and anyone who could be sensitive to the effects of secondhand smoke.
By just observing these tips, your cat can live a healthy and happy life for as long as possible.
It's important to do what we can to protect our cats because they are totally at our mercy, living in our homes, where they are exposed to many of the same toxins and hazards that we are. But they are smaller, and not able to make decisions about their environment, so it's up to us to provide optimal conditions that lead to continued health and happiness.
Another significant reason to make the effort to keep them healthy is the reduction in medical problems that can result in costly trips to the veterinarian. To be sure you keep your kitty healthy, focus on these areas:
1. Diet. Always read the ingredient labels on any commercial food you buy. Remember that cats are obligate carnivores and require more protein than most pets, such as dogs. Canned, or wet, food is a good choice over dry kibble because it has a higher water content and can help minimize the risk of kidney disease. Organic pet foods are becoming more popular and are worth your attention, too, because of the higher quality ingredients.
2. Water. Be sure your cat always has fresh, clear water at all times. One way to be sure kitty gets enough to drink is to keep it in a separate location from the food. Cats in nature don't eat and drink at the same meal, and tamed cats don't do it either, unless they have no choice. Also, if the tap water in your area is full of chemicals and you drink filtered water, then by all means, give your cat the same consideration.
3. Nutritional supplements. Do you take your vitamins every day? Cats may need some, too, and there are many on the market now, as more and more people realize the need to provide proper nutrition to their pets. Rather than trying to figure out which vitamins and minerals are needed and then buying them separately, try to find a good all around supplement. A very good formula, along with a free ebook about feline nutrition, can be obtained here: http://bit.ly/9pN3Uj
4. Love and attention. Many people think cats are aloof and have no feelings, but that's completely untrue. Cats are very emotional beings and only appear aloof when people ignore them and they are forced to survive under whatever conditions are present. Scientific studies have proven that love and attention play a major role in the health and well being of people, dogs and other creatures. Why not cats?
5. Minimize toxins at home. Just as you might keep small objects and toxic cleaning supplies out of reach of toddlers, do the same for your cat. They are just as curious as children are and can get into dangerous substances and items that can harm them. Also, if you smoke, your cat is smoking, too. Their lungs are much much smaller and will be affected more severely than yours are. If you must smoke, do so in an area away from your cat, kids, other pets, and anyone who could be sensitive to the effects of secondhand smoke.
By just observing these tips, your cat can live a healthy and happy life for as long as possible.
Friday, December 9, 2011
The Most Common Cat Health Problem
Image via WikipediaThe most common reason cats go to the veterinarian seems to be for urinary problems. This may be related to the common complaint many cat owners have that their kitties are eliminating outside of the litter box. Sadly, this behavior often results in them being thrown outside, because some people believe the cat is doing it on purpose, as a sort of revenge for something.Cats don't have human emotions, so revenge isn't in their repertoire of behaviors. If they are having difficulty urinating, it's usually a medical problem and they should be taken to the vet to have an exam and possibly treatment. The most common urinary ailment is called Feline Lower Urinary Tract Disease, or, FLUTD. (For a list of common ailments, see my website:
www.theproblemcat.com/articles/cathealth.html)
If they pass their medical exam and it's determined to be a behavior problem, it's only fair to look into the possibilities with that, too. They don't have the problem-solving abilities that we do, nor do they have the authority to change things at the house! Check this list of reasons cats may not like using their litter boxes: www.theproblemcat.com/articles/elimination.html
Often, this problem can be cleared up fairly easily, either with a round of antibiotics if it's physical, or making some changes at home if it's emotional. It can be as simple as placing the litter box in a new location!
Tuesday, July 12, 2011
Will Getting a Puppy Affect Your Cat's Health?
So, you want to get a dog! Cool! There are so many things to think about, of course, and the resident cat is happy to be your one and only, as cats always are, so a new member of the family is certainly going to affect him. What we don't know yet, is how. Has he ever seen a dog? Has he ever had a buddy of any kind? Another cat even? If not, he could be very upset....or, on the
other hand, if he happens to find the puppy interesting, they could become pals right away. It's rare, but it happens. However, cats are prone to becoming depressed if their lives are turned upside down.
Now, the other thing to think about is your own experience with dogs. Are you prepared for the intensity of life with a new pup? And I do mean intense.
You'll probably want to be prepared for potential problems. If they do not get along...and that will be up to the cat, as it usually is...do you have a way to keep them apart?
The overriding concern will be for the cat's well being, mostly emotional, though he could be physically at risk if the dog happens to have a high prey drive. (Never ever leave them alone together unsupervised.)
It can be complicated, but it could also go well. You won't know until you try. But, you might consider making it possible to change plans somehow...like, not buying from a breeder (yet), where your action is more likely to be permanent and you can't go back. And you wouldn't want to.
Can you try fostering a dog first? This would give you an idea of how it could go, and what the cat's reaction will be. Most shelters are extremely grateful for temporary foster homes, and that would relieve you of taking a permanent action you couldn't easily reverse.
Also, if you foster several during the course of a few months, or even a year, it would give the cat a chance to get used to a dog, and allow him time to accept that it will be OK when you go for the
permanent one.
Or, if he declines in health or emotional status, you'd know if a dog was a good idea or not to bring into his life.
If you do decide to foster a dog first, I would recommend fostering an older dog. First, because no one wants them anyway, and shelters end up euthanizing millions of them every year. So it would give an old guy a little extra time for love in this world. Second, because an older dog who has been around cats would help ease the transition for the cat! He could teach him that dogs can be good pals.
And, third, the shelter would be more than grateful (if they care...some don't), to have an unwanted dog find a home, even if for a little while. Just be sure to let them know this isn't permanent, so they won't be surprised if you need to bring him back later.
Give yourself some time to think about this and do some research...perhaps just do some dog walking at a shelter if you haven't been around dogs very much. Or visit friends or family if they have a dog and ask questions. Have a friend bring a dog to your place for a visit to see what the cat thinks!
In any case, don't expect immediate results. Everyone needs time to settle in and get used to each other.
other hand, if he happens to find the puppy interesting, they could become pals right away. It's rare, but it happens. However, cats are prone to becoming depressed if their lives are turned upside down.
Now, the other thing to think about is your own experience with dogs. Are you prepared for the intensity of life with a new pup? And I do mean intense.
You'll probably want to be prepared for potential problems. If they do not get along...and that will be up to the cat, as it usually is...do you have a way to keep them apart?
The overriding concern will be for the cat's well being, mostly emotional, though he could be physically at risk if the dog happens to have a high prey drive. (Never ever leave them alone together unsupervised.)
It can be complicated, but it could also go well. You won't know until you try. But, you might consider making it possible to change plans somehow...like, not buying from a breeder (yet), where your action is more likely to be permanent and you can't go back. And you wouldn't want to.
Can you try fostering a dog first? This would give you an idea of how it could go, and what the cat's reaction will be. Most shelters are extremely grateful for temporary foster homes, and that would relieve you of taking a permanent action you couldn't easily reverse.
Also, if you foster several during the course of a few months, or even a year, it would give the cat a chance to get used to a dog, and allow him time to accept that it will be OK when you go for the
permanent one.
Or, if he declines in health or emotional status, you'd know if a dog was a good idea or not to bring into his life.
If you do decide to foster a dog first, I would recommend fostering an older dog. First, because no one wants them anyway, and shelters end up euthanizing millions of them every year. So it would give an old guy a little extra time for love in this world. Second, because an older dog who has been around cats would help ease the transition for the cat! He could teach him that dogs can be good pals.
And, third, the shelter would be more than grateful (if they care...some don't), to have an unwanted dog find a home, even if for a little while. Just be sure to let them know this isn't permanent, so they won't be surprised if you need to bring him back later.
Give yourself some time to think about this and do some research...perhaps just do some dog walking at a shelter if you haven't been around dogs very much. Or visit friends or family if they have a dog and ask questions. Have a friend bring a dog to your place for a visit to see what the cat thinks!
In any case, don't expect immediate results. Everyone needs time to settle in and get used to each other.
Sunday, September 12, 2010
Cat Health Problems Paranoia
Image by Per Ola Wiberg ~ Powi via FlickrThanks to misinformation and scare tactics, many people are afraid of their cats, or even the prospect of owning one in the first place. Sometimes people surrender or abandon a cherished pet because they believe something terrible is happening or is about to happen. Pity the poor feline who has come to trust and love his humans, only to be suddenly cast out with no place to go, or finds him- or herself at a shelter in unfamiliar and frightening surroundings.The paranoia must end. Many thousands of cats die yearly for no good reason. They've done nothing wrong. They deserve protection, respect and understanding. We can do that by becoming educated.
People must stop attributing ultimate authority to others, even when it's someone they trust. There are many sources for information, but there is no one single source that has all the answers. Therefore, we owe it to our pets, ourselves and our families to look in many places and make comparisons to "see how much mud sticks to the wall." Good research doesn't rest on one source.
If you suspect your cat may have a health issue, visit your veterinarian...not the pound, not the shelter, and definitely not a remote dump site.
Saturday, March 6, 2010
How to Add a Kitten to Your Home When You Already Have Cats
When adopting a new kitten, it's essential to consider not only its health needs, but those of any other pets in the home. Even if the older cats in the home are up to date on their vaccinations and in good health, it's wise to protect them with a few precautions. After all, every cat is different and can respond to vaccines differently, meaning they can't be guaranteed to always have 100% immunity.
The first thing to do with the new arrival is to isolate her, not only for health reasons, but as part of the natural introductory process. Cats, in particular, do not generally accept new members into their family easily. With cats, the gradual approach is called for, with plenty of patience on the part of the owners.
It could be part of the way Nature intended things to be, in order to enhance the prospects for survival in any animal group. Allowing new ones into the group readily could be risky, so it's wise to hold back and get to know them first, as well as to weed out health problems before the entire group would be infected.
We should follow suit and take the same precautions. However, we do have some advantages, such as veterinary care as a way to introduce preventive care into the mix.
So when the new kitten comes along, get her to your vet as soon as possible for an examination, testing for common infections, such as leukemia, FIV, and parasites, and then administering the first set of vaccinations.
The most common malady brought in by a new cat or kitten is upper respiratory infection. Watch for watery or oozing eyes and a runny nose.
Keep the new kitten in its own area for at least two weeks, with its own food, water and litter box. Never let the other cats use common items until you're sure everyone is healthy and ready to share. Gradually introduce everyone with supervised together time and be sure they're getting along before you leave them alone.
The first thing to do with the new arrival is to isolate her, not only for health reasons, but as part of the natural introductory process. Cats, in particular, do not generally accept new members into their family easily. With cats, the gradual approach is called for, with plenty of patience on the part of the owners.
It could be part of the way Nature intended things to be, in order to enhance the prospects for survival in any animal group. Allowing new ones into the group readily could be risky, so it's wise to hold back and get to know them first, as well as to weed out health problems before the entire group would be infected.
We should follow suit and take the same precautions. However, we do have some advantages, such as veterinary care as a way to introduce preventive care into the mix.
So when the new kitten comes along, get her to your vet as soon as possible for an examination, testing for common infections, such as leukemia, FIV, and parasites, and then administering the first set of vaccinations.
The most common malady brought in by a new cat or kitten is upper respiratory infection. Watch for watery or oozing eyes and a runny nose.
Keep the new kitten in its own area for at least two weeks, with its own food, water and litter box. Never let the other cats use common items until you're sure everyone is healthy and ready to share. Gradually introduce everyone with supervised together time and be sure they're getting along before you leave them alone.
Friday, February 27, 2009
How to Get Toxoplasmosis From Your Cat
To become infected with toxoplasmosis, there are several conditions that must be met. Of course, no one wants to become infected, but I present it this way to demonstrate how much effort is needed to do it.
First, you must own or obtain a cat that is infected with the organism, Toxoplasma gondii. It's not a bacterium, it's not a fungus, and it's not a virus. It's what is known as a protozoan, a tiny, one-celled parasite... kind of like an amoeba, but crescent-shaped, if you have a microscope and want to look at one.
To find out if your cat has it, have a veterinarian test for it. However, this involves doing a blood test called an "antibody titer," but it's not diagnostic unless a series of tests can be performed over time. If the titer is positive, it means the cat is pretty much immune, as antibodies are present to fight off current and future infections. This is true of humans as well. Therefore, a pre-pregnancy antibody test that yields a positive result means mom is immune, too.
However, if you're not immune, the next thing to do to become infected is to make contact with the parasite's eggs. But not just a touch... you have to eat them. Ugh. How does that happen? During the only two weeks in the cat's life when the parasite is shedding its eggs into the host cat's feces, a human must touch them, then somehow get the infectious material into their own mouth. But not right away. If you do it too soon, the eggs won't mature and you won't be infected. You must wait 1 - 4 days, when the feces are dried enough for the eggs to be "potent." Scientifically, it's called "sporulated."
Consequently, if you are cleaning the litter box every day, this can't even happen.
But there's more. Other conditions must be met at the same time.
"Ideally," this must be your first cat, preferably a kitten, since they haven't had a chance to develop immunity from several exposures yet. If you've ever owned cats before, or have one now that's been in the family a long time, the chances of infection are actually negligible. Why?
Because you will be immune by now... and so will the cat. Since exposure is rather common, both you and your cat will have had time to develop some immunity to it.
Also, this infection is a one-time thing, so no treatment has been invented, except for humans. Once the parasite has run through its life cycle, it's over. The cat must become infected again to be infectious again. But the cat's own immune system will be stronger, and spreading the condition to others is even less likely. In fact, repeated infection, as by cats who hunt and eat infected mice (the most prevalent host), leads to a form of "natural vaccination," eventually rendering the cat non-infectious. However, this doesn't mean it's OK to let the cat keep getting infected. They could actually become sick from the disease state of Toxoplasmosis and die.
Now, if you really want to scare yourself and take a chance that the infection will harm your fetus, you must become infected during your second or third trimester of pregnancy. This is the time when you might have some transplacental transmission of the parasite into the baby's bloodstream, and on to the small intestine, where the "oocysts" (the parasite's eggs) can hatch and grow. However, even with such infection, the odds are still greatest that the baby will be born normally and totally healthy.
Just when you thought you were through, there is yet another condition to be met. It's called immunity. Just in case you have a very poor immune system, the chance of infection, though small, is still there.
However, while the incidence of toxoplasmosis is extremely low among healthy humans, it actually is quite high among AIDS victims, who have little or no immune strength left at all. Those who have pet cats and come into close contact with them are more than likely to become infected. But pregnancy has nothing to do with it. Companionship is more important at such times, and so it's best to leave these happy relationships alone, offering support by relieving them of those cleanup chores that present the most risk.
But there is yet ONE MORE condition to consider, and it has nothing whatsoever to do with a cat! Just eating undercooked meat can do it, too.
The main thing you don't have to do is get rid of your cat.
Sources: The Cornell Book of Cats, Cornell University; The Merck Veterinary Manual, Merck & Co.
Feel free to download a brochure on this subject at my website: The Problem Cat
Look through the center column of Free Reports. In fact, download anything there that looks interesting to you.
First, you must own or obtain a cat that is infected with the organism, Toxoplasma gondii. It's not a bacterium, it's not a fungus, and it's not a virus. It's what is known as a protozoan, a tiny, one-celled parasite... kind of like an amoeba, but crescent-shaped, if you have a microscope and want to look at one.
To find out if your cat has it, have a veterinarian test for it. However, this involves doing a blood test called an "antibody titer," but it's not diagnostic unless a series of tests can be performed over time. If the titer is positive, it means the cat is pretty much immune, as antibodies are present to fight off current and future infections. This is true of humans as well. Therefore, a pre-pregnancy antibody test that yields a positive result means mom is immune, too.
However, if you're not immune, the next thing to do to become infected is to make contact with the parasite's eggs. But not just a touch... you have to eat them. Ugh. How does that happen? During the only two weeks in the cat's life when the parasite is shedding its eggs into the host cat's feces, a human must touch them, then somehow get the infectious material into their own mouth. But not right away. If you do it too soon, the eggs won't mature and you won't be infected. You must wait 1 - 4 days, when the feces are dried enough for the eggs to be "potent." Scientifically, it's called "sporulated."
Consequently, if you are cleaning the litter box every day, this can't even happen.
But there's more. Other conditions must be met at the same time.
"Ideally," this must be your first cat, preferably a kitten, since they haven't had a chance to develop immunity from several exposures yet. If you've ever owned cats before, or have one now that's been in the family a long time, the chances of infection are actually negligible. Why?
Because you will be immune by now... and so will the cat. Since exposure is rather common, both you and your cat will have had time to develop some immunity to it.
Also, this infection is a one-time thing, so no treatment has been invented, except for humans. Once the parasite has run through its life cycle, it's over. The cat must become infected again to be infectious again. But the cat's own immune system will be stronger, and spreading the condition to others is even less likely. In fact, repeated infection, as by cats who hunt and eat infected mice (the most prevalent host), leads to a form of "natural vaccination," eventually rendering the cat non-infectious. However, this doesn't mean it's OK to let the cat keep getting infected. They could actually become sick from the disease state of Toxoplasmosis and die.
Now, if you really want to scare yourself and take a chance that the infection will harm your fetus, you must become infected during your second or third trimester of pregnancy. This is the time when you might have some transplacental transmission of the parasite into the baby's bloodstream, and on to the small intestine, where the "oocysts" (the parasite's eggs) can hatch and grow. However, even with such infection, the odds are still greatest that the baby will be born normally and totally healthy.
Just when you thought you were through, there is yet another condition to be met. It's called immunity. Just in case you have a very poor immune system, the chance of infection, though small, is still there.
However, while the incidence of toxoplasmosis is extremely low among healthy humans, it actually is quite high among AIDS victims, who have little or no immune strength left at all. Those who have pet cats and come into close contact with them are more than likely to become infected. But pregnancy has nothing to do with it. Companionship is more important at such times, and so it's best to leave these happy relationships alone, offering support by relieving them of those cleanup chores that present the most risk.
But there is yet ONE MORE condition to consider, and it has nothing whatsoever to do with a cat! Just eating undercooked meat can do it, too.
The main thing you don't have to do is get rid of your cat.
Sources: The Cornell Book of Cats, Cornell University; The Merck Veterinary Manual, Merck & Co.
Feel free to download a brochure on this subject at my website: The Problem Cat
Look through the center column of Free Reports. In fact, download anything there that looks interesting to you.
Subscribe to:
Posts (Atom)